Monstera Plant Care Guide: How to Grow and Care for Monstera Leaves

Q: Can I grow an avocado tree indoors year-round?
A: Yes, you can! But keep in mind, avocado trees need a lot of light. Make sure to place it in a sunny spot (preferably south-facing) or use a grow light to help it thrive indoors.
Q: Are avocado trees self-pollinating?
A: Yes, avocado trees are self-pollinating, meaning they don’t need another tree to produce fruit. However, having two trees can improve fruit production by increasing pollination.
Q: How much space do I need to plant an avocado tree?
A: Avocado trees need a lot of room to grow—expect them to reach 30-40 feet tall and 20-30 feet wide! Be sure to plant them at least 15-20 feet away from other trees, structures, or fences to give them room to spread out.
Q: What’s the difference between a perennial and an annual medicinal herb?
A: Perennial herbs come back year after year, so once you plant them, you’ll have them for a long time! Annual herbs, on the other hand, only last for one growing season, so you’ll need to replant them each year. Perennials like mint, echinacea, and yarrow save you the hassle of replanting every spring.
Q: How can I harvest medicinal herbs without killing the plant?
A: The key is to harvest selectively! Only take what you need from each plant—this lets it continue to grow and regenerate. For herbs like mint and sage, you can snip off the top leaves regularly to encourage fresh growth. For larger plants like echinacea or valerian, cut back the flowers once they’ve bloomed to keep the plant healthy.
Q: What’s the best way to use my herbs for medicinal purposes?
A: There are tons of ways to use your medicinal herbs! Fresh leaves can be used in teas, tinctures, or poultices. Dried herbs ar
Q: Are early spring blue flowers annuals or perennials?
A: Most early spring blue flowers like Crocus and Iris reticulata are perennials. They come back every year, giving you reliable, beautiful blooms each spring. However, some, like Scilla and Chionodoxa, are typically planted as perennials, too, but depending on your climate, you may treat them as annuals if they don’t come back reliably in colder areas.
Q: Aside from blue flowers, are there any white flowers that bloom in early spring?
A: Absolutely! If you’re looking to mix things up, there are some gorgeous white flowers that bloom just as early as blue ones. Snowdrops are a classic—these delicate flowers pop up right when the snow is melting. Anemone is another great option; it has simple, pure white blooms that are perfect for adding a clean, crisp touch to your spring garden.
Q: What’s the best way to combine white and blue flowers in my garden?
A: For a stunning contrast, try planting blue ones like Crocus and Iris reticulata next to white ones like Anemone or Lily of the Valley. The combination of the cool blues with the fresh white blooms will create a striking visual impact. You can also create a natural look by planting them in clusters or drifts across your garden.
Alright, let’s talk about Monsteras—the stylish, Instagram-worthy house plants that has taken over plant parenthood. You’ve probably come across this beauty before. Those big, dramatic, hole-filled leaves? Yeah, that’s a Monstera. And let me tell you, they’re as fun to grow as they are to admire.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about caring for a Monstera plant. I’ll keep it simple, beginner-friendly, and full of little plant-parenting gems I’ve learned along the way.
Monstera 101: The Basics
- Plant Type: Tropical evergreen vine
- Size: Can grow up to 10 feet indoors (even bigger outdoors!)
- Soil Type: Well-draining, rich potting mix
- Soil pH: Slightly acidic to neutral (5.5–7.0)
- Bloom Time: Rarely blooms indoors, but flowers in its native habitat
- Hardiness Zones: 10–12 (thrives in warm, humid climates)
- Native Area: Central and South America
- Toxicity Level: Toxic to pets and humans if ingested (so keep it away from your furry friends!)
Why Should You Get a Monstera?
Besides being an absolute showstopper in any room, Monsteras are pretty easygoing. They tolerate low light, don’t demand constant attention, and can bounce back from neglect better than most houseplants. Plus, they’re excellent air purifiers, making them great for improving indoor air quality.
The Best Monstera Plant Types
Monsteras aren’t just a one-size-fits-all plant. While the classic Monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant, is the most well-known (and the one you’ve probably seen all over Instagram), there are actually several different varieties—each with its own unique charm.
Monstera Adansonii

Think of this as the smaller, cuter cousin of the deliciosa. It has smaller, heart-shaped foliage covered in Swiss cheese-like holes, giving it a super playful, delicate look. Adansonii is a vining Monstera, so it’s perfect for hanging baskets or training up a moss pole.
Monstera Obliqua

If you want the ultimate Monstera flex, this is it. Obliqua has even more dramatic holes than adansonii, to the point where the leaves look like lace. It’s so rare (and pricey) that most people will never own one—but it’s fun to dream! Just be warned: If you see a cheap "Monstera obliqua" at a plant shop, it’s probably an adansonii being mislabeled.
Monstera Peru (Monstera karstenianum)

This one is totally different from your typical hole-filled Monstera. Instead of fenestrations, its leaves are thick, textured, and have a beautiful rippled effect. It’s a slower grower, making it a great choice if you don’t want a plant that takes over your living room too quickly.
Variegated Monstera

The ultimate showstopper! These plants have striking white or yellow marbled patterns on their leaves, and each one is completely unique. The downside? They’re incredibly rare and expensive—like, "cost more than your rent" expensive. But if you can get your hands on one, they’re absolutely breathtaking and a collector’s dream.
When and Where to Plant Your Monstera
If you’re keeping your Monstera indoors (which most people do), you can technically plant it anytime. Just make sure you place it in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight. Outdoors, it should be planted in a warm, humid climate—think tropical vibes.
How to Plant a Monstera (Step-by-Step)
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Want to grow your own Monstera? You’ve got two main options: cuttings or seeds. Cuttings are way easier and faster, but if you love a good challenge, you can try growing from seed.
Propagating Monstera from Cuttings (The Easy Way)
If you have a healthy Monstera and want to create a baby plant, you can propagate through cuttings. Here’s how:
- Take a cutting – Find a stem with at least one node (the little bump where roots and leaves grow). If it has an aerial root, even better! Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut just below the node.
- Root it in water – Place the cutting in a jar of clean water, making sure the node is submerged. Keep it in a warm, bright spot (but out of direct sunlight).
- Change the water regularly – Swap out the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent bacteria buildup.
- Wait for roots to grow – In about 2–4 weeks, you should start seeing little roots sprout. Let them grow to at least 2 inches long before moving to soil.
- Transfer to soil – Once the roots are ready, plant the cutting in a pot with well-draining soil (a mix of potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark works great).
- Water lightly – Don’t drown it! Water just enough to keep the soil slightly moist, but not soggy. Overwatering is a fast track to root rot.
- Watch it grow – With the right care, your new Monstera baby will start putting out fresh leaves in no time.
Growing Monsteras from Seeds (For the Patient Plant Parent)
Growing a Monstera from seeds is totally possible, but it’s a slow and unpredictable process. If you’re up for it, here’s how:
- Find fresh seeds – Monstera seeds don’t stay viable for long, so make sure you’re getting fresh ones. They should be greenish and plump, not dried out.
- Soak the seeds – Place them in warm water for 12–24 hours to help speed up germination.
- Plant in a light, airy mix – Use a moist, well-draining soil mix (something with peat moss and perlite is ideal). Gently press the seeds into the soil without burying them too deep.
- Keep it warm and humid – Monsteras love tropical conditions, so place the pot in a warm, humid environment (around 70–85°F). A clear plastic bag over the pot can help trap moisture.
- Mist regularly – Keep the soil slightly damp but avoid overwatering.
- Be patient – Germination can take a few weeks to a few months. Once the seedling appears, continue providing warmth and humidity until it’s strong enough to be treated like a regular Monstera plant.
Monstera Deliciosa Care Requirements

Light
Monstera needs bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight they’d get in their native tropical forests—direct sun can scorch their leaves, but too little light will slow their growth. A spot near a window with filtered light is perfect. If your Monstera leaves start looking leggy or stretching toward the light, it’s a sign it needs a brighter spot.
Water
Water your monstera when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry—stick your finger in to check! These plants hate soggy feet, so make sure your pot has drainage holes to let excess water escape. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is a nightmare to fix. In the winter, your Monstera will need less water, so scale back to avoid drowning it.
Soil
Use a well-draining soil mix that mimics the loose, rich forest floor they love in the wild. A blend of potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark creates the perfect airy texture, allowing roots to breathe while holding just the right amount of moisture.
Temperature & Humidity
Monsteras thrive in warm, humid conditions—65–85°F (18–29°C) is their happy place. If your home tends to be dry, you can:
✔️ Mist the leaves occasionally
✔️ Use a pebble tray with water underneath the pot
✔️ Invest in a small humidifier (your plant will love you for it!)
Cold drafts and sudden temperature drops can stress your Monstera out, so keep it away from open windows in winter.
Location
A bright living room, bedroom, or office space is ideal. Just avoid placing your Monstera near AC vents, heaters, or drafty doors, as these can dry it out too quickly. If you notice monstera’s leaves turning brown or has crispy leaf edges, it’s a sign your plant needs more humidity!
Maintenance Tips

Fertilizing
Monsteras are fast growers, especially in the spring and summer! Feed them with a balanced liquid fertilizer (diluted to half-strength) once a month during the growing season. When fall and winter roll around, cut back on feeding—your plant will naturally slow down, so it won’t need extra nutrients. Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which burns the roots (and nobody wants that!).
Pruning
Monsteras can get big—like, take-over-your-living-room big. If yours is getting out of control, trim it back to maintain its shape. Use sharp, clean scissors to snip off any damaged or yellowing leaves to keep the plant looking fresh. Bonus: If you’re cutting healthy stems, you can propagate them and grow more Monsteras!
Mulching
If you’re growing your Monstera outdoors, a thin layer of mulch around the base can help retain moisture and regulate temperature. Indoors, this isn’t necessary, but if you tend to underwater your plants, a bit of moss on top of the soil can help retain humidity.
Potting & Repotting
Monsteras outgrow their pots every couple of years—or sooner if they’re thriving! Signs it’s time to repot:
✔️ Roots are poking out of the drainage holes
✔️ Growth has slowed down (despite good care)
✔️ The soil dries out way too fast
When repotting, go for a pot that’s 2 inches larger in diameter and make sure it has drainage holes. Fresh soil will give your Monstera a nutrient boost and more space to stretch its roots.
Overwintering
If your Monstera lives outside during the warmer months, bring it indoors once temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). They hate the cold and will suffer if left outside. Indoors, keep it away from drafty windows or heating vents, as sudden temperature changes can cause leaf damage.
Common Pests & Diseases Care Guide
Pests
- Spider Mites & Mealybugs – Wipe leaves with a damp cloth and use insecticidal soap.
- Fungus Gnats – Let the soil dry out between waterings to discourage them.
Diseases
- Root Rot – Caused by overwatering. Trim affected roots and repot in fresh, dry soil.
- Leaf Spot – If you notice brown spots with yellow edges, it could be a fungal issue. Treat with a copper-based fungicide.
FAQs
Q: Is a Monstera really easy to care for?
A: Absolutely! Monsteras are famous for being super easy to care for. With a little attention to watering, light, and occasional repotting, your plant’s gorgeous foliage will thrive. They're a great choice if you're just starting your plant parent journey.
Q: Can you harvest Monstera?
A: Technically, yes! If you’re lucky enough to grow a Monstera deliciosa to maturity, it can produce a fruit that tastes like a mix of banana and pineapple. However, indoor plants rarely bloom or fruit, so don’t count on it unless you’re growing it in a tropical garden.
Q: Why does Monstera have such big leaves?
A: Monsteras naturally evolved in tropical rainforests, where sunlight is often limited by the dense canopy overhead. Those oversized leaves act like nature’s solar panels, maximizing light absorption for energy. They also serve as storage for water and nutrients, which helps the plant thrive even when conditions change. It's all about survival in a low-light environment!